9 Days in Croatia- Travel Recommendations for Split, Hvar & Dubrovnik
- Brooke Amidei
- 2 days ago
- 16 min read
When we told people we were taking a family vacation to Croatia we got one of three responses:
"You're going to LOVE it!"
"That's on my bucket list."
"Really." "How did you pick Croatia?"
We didn't have some romantic calling to go to Croatia, to be honest we picked it with the help of ChatGPT. I had put in some prompts asking for vacation destination ideas for a family of four, including two active teenage boys, who wanted a European destination that had a strong mix of adventure and activity, history, sights and great food and atmosphere. It came back with several suggestions and we whittled it down to Greece or Croatia, but given our dates and overall intrigue, Croatia became our top choice.
We went into this vacation more blind than we usually do. None of us knew much about the country and given very busy schedules in the months leading up to our trip, there wasn't much time for research. After flights were booked, and again relying heavily on AI for help, I spent one full day choosing where in Croatia we would go and booking our accommodations. Then less than a month before we left I again spent about a day with ChatGPT coming up with a very loose itinerary for each day to avoid the dreaded, "What are we doing today?" and having to do that research while on the trip. Below is what we did and what we would recommend to our friends.
Trip Overview:
Flights into Split and out of Dubrovnik taking the ferry between the cities and island.
Split: 3 nights
Hvar: 2 nights
Dubrovnik: 3 nights
Flying in and out of separate cities really helped us maximize our time and not have to do any backtracking. We loved taking the ferry between destinations as it was fun and scenic in and of itself and felt like part of the adventure as opposed to a stop in the fun needed for travel time.
Split
Where We Stayed: Heritage Hotel Cardo
This is the only spot we stayed in a hotel because we didn't want to mess with the VRBO stuff flying into the city so late at night. We LOVED this spot! Actually couldn't believe how close it was (steps) to the Diocletian's Palace at the heart of Old Town (UNESCO World Heritage site is a living city center where ancient Roman ruins, shops, and cafes blend into a vibrant, pedestrian-only maze of stone streets). It was incredibly convenient and walkable to all of the things we wanted to see and places we wanted to go. It was roomy and nice and even had two separate floors in our family duplex so we all had decent space. Could've used a second bathroom, but we weren't expecting that in our hotel.
The hotel arranged private transfer from the airport which was fantastic arriving so late and slightly jet-lagged. There was an additional cost associated, but it was very fair in comparison to Uber prices. The biggest perk of staying at this location was that cook to order breakfast was included and it was actually at a nearby restaurant. It was INSANE how big and fantastic this breakfast was! In fact our only complaint by day 3 was that we were so full that we didn't want to eat lunch and there were so many fantastic spots that we wanted to stop in and grab a bite at! Usually I kind of write off breakfasts included with your hotel, but this was a huge exception- it was the best breakfasts we had on our trip. Below is the breakfast "appetizer" they brought out before your ordered!
Getting to know the area over a couple of days it did look like there were a lot of other great options to stay just outside of the Old Town Walls that were more traditional hotels and likely slightly better amenities, but again, we really loved our hotel, location and perks.
What We Did:
This was the standout highlight. We explored on our own the Peristyle Square and the Vestibule and all four of us really enjoyed walking through the The Cellars. We did not do any formal tours, but just explored ourselves and researched when our interest was peeked. We also loved being close enough to explore the palace multiple times per day- early morning before the cruise ship crowds arrived, during the day and at noon where they have a short but fun reenactment of Roman rule and at night when they have live music and cushions around the steps for people to relax, people watch and take in the sights with a beverage in hand.
From Old Town it's a short walk to the base of Marjan, about 10 minutes. Climb the steps (if memory serves I believe it was about 300) and you are rewarded with gorgeous views of Split harbor and Old Town.
You can then walk to Kasjuni Beach. This walk was about 30-45 minutes and might be more enjoyable if it wasn't blazing hot (we were visiting in late June and it happened to be during a European heat wave). It was nhttp://that.Youot shaded so this felt like a long and argeous walk. We followed signs to Kasjuni which weren't always crystal clear, but with the help of Google maps we descended the western side of Marjan and ended at the pebble beach. We thought this beach was incredible, but this was before we saw all that Croatia has to offer. It was a pretty great beach, and we had a great time there. You will hear me say it again and again here, but you absolutely need water shoes for these beaches- they are not sand, they are rock. We had very high hopes for a place to get cold drinks and snacks at Kasjuni Beach, but did not find a spot for that. At the end of the beach there is a section that is a nude beach if you want to parktake in that on your travels. :) You can taxi or Uber to or from the beach which we did on the way back.
This is the waterfront just outside the walls of Old Town and it is bustling! Great outdoor cafes and spots for gelato. We were lucky enough to be visiting during the World Cup and many restaurants pulled big screens outside so I highlight for us was watching matches surrounded by fans from all over the world along the waterfront.
Overall Split Thoughts:
Our overall favorite thing in Split was just exploring the streets of Old Town and the Palace. We had planned to visit Klis Fortress but it was on a Croatian holiday and we were unclear (as was our hotel staff) if it was open or not so we opted for more exploring in Old Town. Two full days in Split was plenty for us, we were ready to move onto our next location. In fact, I'm not sure what we would've done with another day there.
Also worth noting- there was a pretty big party scene in Split. I think it is easily avoidable, but our very first outing the night we arrived in Split I was worried we picked a city that was giving off spring break vibes. A lot of young people out at clubs and bars. I believe school had just gotten out for summer when we visited which was mid/late June. Just something to be mindful of.
Where We Ate:
I'm not going too deep into where we ate at any location- just the highlights because there are SO many great places to eat that you don't need to seek out one specific spot, in fact we cancelled the two reservations I had made for this trip before we left because we didn't want to be married to our schedule and every spot was great. That being said- I will share the standouts.
Konoba Duboka Ladovina
After our swim at Kansjuni Beach we ate here (still in our swimsuits). It was a gorgeous outdoor patio, live music, football on the telly, and the best pasta we had the entire trip. This restaurant is walkable from Old Town the is in a fantastic area. We ate in this area again the following night, but this was our favorite restaurant. I would seek this one out, although I don't think you would need a reservation.
Others mentioned by ChatGPT:
Casual / Family-Friendly
Fig Split- Great relaxed vibe and very central.
Villa Spiza- Tiny, authentic, beloved local-style spot.
Slightly More Elevated
LAGANINI seafood • pasta • steak- Good for a nice seafood-focused dinner.
Portofino- More upscale if you want one beautiful meal.
Ferry: Split to Hvar
We took the ferry from Split to Hvar and were told to book in advance (a definite must if you are traveling during the busy season). We booked through Ferryhopper and this was the exact ferry we took: KAPETAN LUKA-KRILO. There are different terminals at both locations so it is good to check that you are exiting and entering where you want to. We departed Split from Gat Svetog Petra, which was right off the Riva close to Old Town. It was a one hour ferry and roughly $125 for the four to Hvar.
One very important note: we each packed only in backpacks which was clutch the entirety of our trip. Watching people struggle with their rollie bags and suitcases became almost comical as we could walk right by them. Could you bring suitcases? Sure, but a lot of the areas, Old Town in Split for example, is pedistrian only, so it would not be fun to be dragging a suitcase over the cobblestone and up stairs, etc. We found this to be true at every location.
Hvar
Where We Stayed: Heritage villa David
VRBO Details 2 King beds and 2 floors
Another 10/10 location! First of all the host couldn't have been more fantastic- great communicator and just overall helpful and wonderful woman. The VRBO was easy walking distance from the harbor, up some gorgeous cobblestone steps, as they all are. Again it was two floors so lots of room for the teenage boys to spread out and had all of the ammennities. You can tell that the host has traveled a lot and been thoughtful about her rental. Everywhere I wished there was a shelf, there was., etc. I haven't even mentioned the best part which was the incredible views from the upstairs window and also from the small balcony.
What We Did:
With only a day and a half in Hvar we hit the ground running. We got settled into our VRBO, grabbed a delicious lunch (our youngest son's favorite meal of the trip) at one of the numerous cafes right outside our door, and then we opted to walk to Pokonji Dol Beach which was about 30 minutes away walking. Our oldest guided us with Google Maps and we got to see a bit of the non-tourist part of Hvar. This beach was gorgeous, had a fantastic restaurant and bar area and was the perfect way to spend our afternoon. We got an Uber back to our apartment. We really loved this spot!
Our Uber driver had a great idea to drop us off at the top of the Fortica Fortress so we could explore the outside of the fortress just as the sun was beginning to set and then walk the nice path down to our apartment in Old Town which was about 20 minutes. All of it lovely!
Another huge highlight of Hvar was the waterfront harbor. Filled with incredible restaurants and bars and great for a long stroll to see other properties and take in the views! We ate every dinner in this area (again taking in the World Cup action) and also headed up as many little alleyways as we could. Gorgeous and fun town! We all absolutely loved this heart of Hvar.
The main event! It was easy to grab a water taxi without a reservation and we headed over there after cappuccino and croissants had been had. We also brought with us (flew with us in our suitcases) a couple of inflatable floaties and small towels that we used at every beach location we went to and we were so glad we had them. Again- if you're going to the beach bring your own water shoes, towels (get some of the reallly thin ones that you can pack easily- I have links below) and whatever fun toys you want. For us that was floaties and a Croatia football we picked up at a market in Split. We used all of those things every single time and we're so glad we had them as didn't see things like being sold conveniently at the beaches.
The specific island that we went to suggested to us by our VRBO host was Zdrilca. We were able to secure beach chairs for free if you dined at the restaurant there which we were happy to do. This was a really nice and fun beach. This is the spot where I fell in love with the crisp Adriatic Sea and we spent a majority of the day playing and dining here and taking in the view of the many sailboats.
From Zdrilca it is a short walk through the island to reach Mlini Beach. Another really cool spot, but not much easy access to the pebble beach so we were happy we didn't give up our chairs at Zdrilca any earlier, but also glad we checked it out.
Overall Hvar Thoughts:
I don't know much about any of the other islands in Croatia- I have a feeling they are all fantastic, but I would highly recommend if time allows that you spend some if it on the islands of Croatia. We loved this unique and some how both quiet and laidback, while also bursting with energy and life, little city on the sea. It is here that I absolutely fell in love with the Adriatic Sea in a way I have never felt about another body of water. The color, the cleanliness, the way the water feels somehow and embracing the water shoe and not missing the mess of sand. It is a dream!
You can also visit the Blue Caves (if we had another day here that would've been top of my list) and there are many other places to see and things to do. I think we might've enjoyed one more full day here. I read that you can hire a private skipper for the day too which I'm sure would've been incredible for fewer crowds and more quiet coves.
Dubovica Beach was on our list as well, but we didn't make it there.
Where To Eat:
Once again no real "must-do" suggestions. All of the food was fantastic (I will list your must eat dishes below), but there are so many options, let your nose lead you!
We started the day with really great cappuccino and iced matcha latte but the focaccia sandwich there blew my mind! It had me thinking about it days later. One of my favorite bites of the trip.
Ferry: Hvar to Dubrovnik
This time I booked the ferry through Ferryscanner. Our exact ferry was on the TP Line, Ship: Puntamika (but don't get too caught up in trying to take the exact one- I think there are lots of options. This is just for reference). It was 3 1/2 hours aboard the ferry and cost roughly $250 for our family of 4. I had seen it suggested to fly to Dubrovnik, but the ferry was great although this ferry was FULLY packed- not an open chair so definitely book in advance.
Our ferry had one stop between Hvar and Dubrovnik and it looked incredible! If I were planning a trip to Croatia I would look into Korcula!
Dubrovnik
Where We Stayed: Hedera Estate, Hedera AB Dubrovnik
Ulica Matije Gupca 3, Dubrovnik, 20000 Croatia
Another win for location and accommodation. Just up the stairs from all of the Old Town magic, but a lot of them (as they all are). Both Hvar and Dubrovnik have the heart of the city down at sea level on the harbor and then everything goes up from there- apartments, restaurants, etc. Our VRBO was 174 (yes we know it exactly) steps up from Old Town, but we found it very manageable and were again thankful that we had everything we needed right on our backs. I strongly recommend that you keep in mind the abilities and fitness levels of those in your travel group when you are booking accommodations in Croatia.
This spot in particular had two wings with two bathrooms, a large kitchen and living room space and the highlight was a private patio out front with picturesque views of Old Town. There was also a hot tub (which we didn't use in the blazing heat, but might be nice during other times of the year). The bathrooms were very long and slim and it sounds silly but that was kind of annoying. If I were to stay in Dubrovnik I might look around this location, but not maybe this particular spot. In addition, I might look at surrounding areas like Cavtat if I were to be in the area longer and spend long days in Old Town, but retreat away from the crowds.
A great bonus of our location meant that we could enjoy Old Town during numerous times of the day, especially early morning before the crowds and late at night under the moon.
What We Did:
This is iconic Croatia at its best! A UNESCO World Heritage site known as the "Pearl of the Adriatic" and also the home to Game of Throne's King's Landing. It is just absolutely incredible and I couldn't spent days just strolling the alleyways and Stradun (main street) within the Old Town walls. Every turn brings about new cafes and shops, interesting views and hidden treasures. You will find Michelin restaurants, charming cafes and gelato on almost every corner. There is one hidden cove that we found but didn't get the chance to fully dive into- literally... I would put Buza Bar on your list if visiting. It is a cliffside bar built into the exterior of the defensive walls accessed through a whole in the exterior. Here you can grab a great drink and watch, or partake, in jumping off a small cliff into the water. We all wanted to, even though it would've been a bit scary, but weren't dressed for swimming when we came across this spot.
This was high on our must-do list! There are walls surrounding all of Old Town that you can stroll giving you the most gorgeous birds-eye view of the city and the sea. The total loop is 1.25 miles and I believe there are a few different spots that you can enter from. Adult wall tickets are around €40 and it is suggested to go right when they open (8am) to avoid both the heat and the cruise ship crowds. We did just that but given the heat wave we were still melting. There is not any shade there although there were two spots you could get a drink at which was nice and which was needed (pack your own water and/or snacks). In fact, we saw one couple who had packed a gorgeous looking pastry breakfast and got to enjoy it taking in the views and were the envy of everyone else rushing by. We were more than ready for an early lunch after finishing the wall walk and stopped at the first pizzeria we found and enjoyed pizza for late breakfast (and lunch) that day!
For our final day in Dubrovnik we knew we needed to be in the water to enjoy it due to the heatwave. We were between so many great options- Banje Beach, Lokrum Island and a half-day trip to Cavtat (25 min. away) all beckoned, but we ended up choosing Sveti Jakov Beach and had no regrets! This beach was again pristine and overlooked the Old Town walls and Lokrum island. It also extended to another beach just to the north that had great little cliffs to jump off that had us all entertained. There was a wonderful restaurant where we enjoyed lunch as we spent the entire day swimming, basking, jumping and enjoying.
Overall Dubrovnik Thoughts:
You must see and experience Old Town Dubrovnik. I guess you could do it all in one day, but I personally would want a minimum of two. The surrounding beaches are incredible as well and there is much to do and see!
Where We Ate:
We ate all over Old Town popping into every cafe we had time for. The standout here was pizza although we had numerous other delicious dishes. I personally wouldn't make a reservation unless you want something specific or uber fabulous. All of the cafe's were incredible!
Croatia Tips
What to Pack:
Backpack: First off, if at all possible, challenge yourself and pack in a backpack.
Great Walking Sandals: My husband and I both decided to not mess around and ordered Dr. Scholl's Sandals after having previous great experience with them and neither of us had any feet issues. Highly recommend.
Portable Fan: Depending on when you travel this would've been incredible! Babble has an entire article on the best portable fans after trying multiple options! Or you can hop straight to our Amazon portable fan storefront.
Inflatable Floatie: I was amazed that they weren't selling something like this at the beaches- I thouroghly enjoyed this everywhere we went and it was well worth the $15 to purchase ahead of time and little bit of backpack space.
Sun Hat: I have worn this hat for years and packed it on every trip. You can squish it down to nothing in your bag and it bounces right back up. Well worth the $25 price tag. I love it so much, one of the first articles I wrote, was only about THIS hat!
Portable Chargers: this is a personal favorite.
Sunglass Cleaner: This might sound silly, but with being in and out of the water- all four of us used this constantly! We own four of these and have become snobs that don't want to use anything else to clean our glasses.
Sunscreen: You can only purchase sunscreen at the pharmacy for some reason and it was closed over the weekend and Croatian holiday when we were there and we were desperate for it! I will say, the sunscreen we purchased there was the best sunscreen we've ever used in our lives- it was so hydrating!
What to Eat:
Dalmatian cuisine is the coastal Mediterranean food culture of Croatia. It is not heavy restaurant cuisine, it’s very simple, ingredient-driven, coastal food.
Our personal top favorite dishes:
Squid ink risotto with cuttlefish
Truffle pasta
Seafood pasta
Pizza
All of the European favorites- great bread with olive oil or butter, cheeses and salamis, cappicinos, croissants and pastries, etc, etc.
In general here is what to look for and expect dining in Croatia:
1. Seafood is king
grilled fish (sea bass, bream)
squid / calamari
octopus salad
shellfish (mussels, scampi)
Cooked very simply:
olive oil + garlic + parsley + lemon
2. Olive oil + herbs define everything
Everything tastes like:
olive oil
garlic
rosemary / parsley
white wine reduction
No heavy sauces.
3. “Peka” (important concept)
A signature method:
meat or octopus cooked under a bell-shaped lid buried in coals
Slow, tender, very traditional.
4. Wine is local + relaxed
crisp whites by the sea
bold reds inland/coastal blends
Nothing overly formal.
5. Simple sides
potatoes
Swiss chard (blitva)
grilled vegetables
bread for dipping
I hope you enjoy Croatia!
Please let me know what you think and if there are other must-see and do's that we didn't get to on our trip.
Check out all of the other travel stories we have Babbled about- more family trips and girls trip inspiration!
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